As you can see from the photos, the bottom started out fairly badly again, with some random strings not sitting on any supported surface. However, once a decent base was provided, the middle layers printed beautifully, absolutely perfect.
One thing that I don’t like about this design is that it prints sideways. I don’t think that’s optimal for an object of this shape. I’ll try and find another minimug that prints vertically. I suspect that it should turn out fairly well.
I can see that my main target for the next few prints will be to try and establish a better base. If I can get the base off to a good start, then the print should be nearly perfect. I think I’ll also bump the strand thickness up from 0.6 to 0.7mm, see if that helps. I’ll also bump up the hot end temperature by 5 degrees, to 235, to help the layers stick a bit better.
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julianh72 said…
When you have an STL file that you need to modify before printing (e.g. rotate or modify in a number of other ways), try using EasyFit which you can get as a free download from http://www.click-to-fit.com/easyfit.php?PHPSESSID=180e214897cf8c673e6340813591f338&lang=en
I have found this to be an extremely useful tool for rotating parts to the optimum orientation for FFF printing, re-scaling, etc. It has also proven useful to convert some STL files which some applications can’t read. For example, Alibre (my chosen 3D MCAD program) exports STL files using scientific number notation,which some applications won’t read correctly. Just open the STL file in EasyFit and re-save, and it will rewrite the file using conventional floating point notation which most (all?) applications should be able to read.
Also very handy for scaling a part – e.g. if you want a scale model of Buckingham Palace for your model railway layout, or you want to enlarge the default size of the printed STL model.
Hope this helps!
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